Change of plan. Keeping the Jeep for now. It stopped burning oil. I really like the Wagoneer. Everything works well in this tough well built vehicle, it was only the oil burning that caused me to consider a newer Jeep. Now that the blue is cured, I can keep an old but good jeep out of the bone yard. This is how you can reduce or stop burning oil in your engine..
The old mechanic came over to the pumps and began conversation with;
"Nice looking’ truck,"
"Saw your blue smoke,'" he added. "Thinkin’ of rebuilding the engine?”
I replaced the hose in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged,
figuring he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn much."
He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit favorable?"
"For what?" I said.
"For fixin’ what's wrong. Go get a cup of coffee. It'll be in good shape when you get back."
"You've got to be kidding!"
He wasn't. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so, since learning of a new product and devising his own technique for using it, he wasn't doing much rebuilding. "Getting’ too old," he complained, "to keep tearing engines down and putting ‘em back together."
Twenty minutes later, I drove out "memorizing" some instructions. My smoke plume soon disappeared and the engine ran progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still don't add oil between changes and you never heard a better running old truck! Now, here's the "Secret Technique" that venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily do yourself:-
First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of "Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-
1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine. A good battery will still turn over fast.
2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the oil you normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)
3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!
Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-
The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.
Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.
The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why change a winning plan!
My success wasn't a "fluke" or something possible only with my type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000 miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance. He dropped from an oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning. One of his co-workers, impressed with the "born-again behemoth", bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he sold it at a handsome profit!
Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers, boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That's when I decided to advertise this "know-how" in a small way.
Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor is this report based on any "lab tests". All I know is that this method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a bunch of others. I can't see that there's any "risk" involved, but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this information assumes no liability or responsibility for any vehicle damage resulting from the use of this information. “Use at your own risk."
Look at it this way. You invested a small amount for information that can save you hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide you with many months, or even years, of additional service... postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come. Not to mention keeping blue smoke from the environment.
Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearing Seal, for about $2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores. [Thanks to: HowToAdvice.com]
PS: Zellers sells a one litre of oil for older cars, [in the RED plastic container for $5.99]. It may contain the same material as Alemite. I*m guessing Molybdinum.= TG
